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Boron Nitride (BN) has become a popular cosmetic
ingredient because of its unique combination of silky feel, skin
adhesion, and proccessability. It is widely used in a variety of
formulations including; concealers, eye preparations, lipsticks, and
skin care products. Therefore, it is beneficial to know how the optical
properties of BN will influence the soft focus effect. There are a large
number of BN powders commercially available which are optimized for
properties such as slip, skin adhesion, and oil adsorption. BN is one of
the most "tailorable" cosmetic ingredients available today. Optimizing
BN for a particular application involves changing the particle size,
shape, and particle surface features. Because these changes influence
the optical properties, a number of different types were selected for
this review.

The optical properties of Boron Nitride are approximately
the same as the more common ingredients used for achieving a soft focus
effect. Because BN is a useful raw material for a variety of
applications, there is a wide range of powders available commercially.
Although there is much more complexity to the optical properties than
could be discussed here, there are a couple of useful general patterns
which have emerged. To increase the direct transmission, the particle
size or particle "smoothness" must be increased. To increase scattered
reflection, the particle should be rough and/or small. Finally, to
achieve the lowest specular reflection, the particle size should be
decreased.
The "ideal" soft focus cosmetic ingredient would have high
direct transmission, high scattered reflection, and low specular
reflection. Although none of the BN grades (or any other single filler
or formulation enhancer powder) meet all of these requirements; choices
can be made which provide an excellent compromise between soft focus and
other desirable properties of BN such as lubricity and skin adhesion.
Cosmetic Boron Nitride (BN) powder is a primary raw
material for a wide range of cosmetic and skin care formulations
including foundations, concealers, lipsticks, face and body powders, eye
color, blushes, sunscreens and moisturizers.
※Oil
Absorption Test
|
Material |
Oil Absorption Value |
|
Talc |
64.94 |
|
Mica |
89.75 |
|
Titanium Dioxide |
70.47 |
|
Bismuth oxvchloride |
48.47 |
|
Cosmetic Boron Nitride |
184.50 |
※Percentages
of Boron Nitride Powders Applied in Cosmetic Formulations
|
Lip and eye pencils |
1-5% |
|
Face and body powder |
5-30% |
|
Eye shadow/blushes |
5-40% |
|
Lipstick |
2-5% |
|
Concelaers/Foundations |
3-7% |
|
Skin care lotions |
3-10% |
|
Sunscreens |
1-5% |
※Solar IR Spectra
Solar
IR radiation has become an increasing matter of concern. It is well
known that solar UV wave
lengths are harmful to healthy skin and result in increasing incidence
of skin cancer, premature skin aging and other undesirable
changes. Less is known about the effects of solar IR radiation which
accounts for over half of the solar output.
|
Solar Spectra Radiation |
|
Range |
% within Range |
|
<200 (UV) |
0.008 |
|
200-400 (Solar UV) |
8.717 |
|
400-700 (Visible) |
38.154 |
|
700-3000 (Near IR) |
50.949 |
|
3000-6000 (Mid IR) |
1.890 |
|
6000-10,000 (Far IR) |
0.220 |
|
?10,000 (Far IR) |
0.063 |
Reports state that IR radiation "can increase
ultra-violet induced skin carcinogenesis as well as produce direct
skin-aging changes" and "acute and chronic effects of IR and the
interaction with UVR suggest that sunscreens should offer protection
against UVR and IR."
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※Advantages:
•
Enhanced
adherence
•
smoother and softer feeling products
•
Improved payoff and spreadability
•
Extended wear
•
Soft focus properties
•
IR absorption
•
Wider range
oil absorption
•
Improved compressibility for pressed powders
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